Since overcoming the stigma I'd attached to surfing prone, I've discovered a whole bunch of new secret spots. They're everywhere, any spot that has super shallow reef or sand bar has times and tides where it's too shallow for stand-up surfing. You might think that these places would be over-run with bodyboarders, but they're not ususally. I'm not exactly sure why this is, but often it seems that the shallow sections peel too quickly to make it down the line on a boogie-board. The Alaia, being dead flat, and longer, has no such trouble.
I've spent a lot of time recently riding a super thin 6 footer. I've had a blast surfing small but perfect points, completley alone! I've even had a couple of sessions at Bells beach where I was taking off way inside, skipping over the reef in about a foot of water, barrel after barrel. All the other surfers were sitting further over, fighting over the few bigger waves that came through. I only lasted a couple of hours because I got no rest, it was just wave after wave after wave!!!
The next day I went to work, and was amused when I heard the other guys saying how they'd sat at home all weekend because there was no surf!!!
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I too am an alaia rider.
I've got a 5'8" Wegener which I love riding.
However I'm trying to understand the relationship between board length and how the board surfs in various conditions.
I'd be curious to hear your observations about board length and how it surfs....
aloha! i saw your posts on swaylocks & trailed you here.
im working on my first alaia, since my gramps is moving back to the islands & has taken his boards with him.
i was hoping you could help me figure out the board profile, particularly rail profile & the transitions to the deck & the base of the board.
im just not getting what folks mean when referring to the slight "roll" along the base edges. how does one transition from the slightly rounded edges at the deck, to the hard edge along the bottom part of the rail, to the "roll" along the base?
i figure some cross-sectional photos might help, if you have any.
to clarify... if i start with a rectangular cross section, i essentially have two hard edges, a top & a bottom one. the top one gets rounded, presumably. does the bottom edge remain as is? then how to i build in the "roll" in the base?
lastly, i'd appreciate any suggestions on tools for someone who's on a tight budget.
mahalo lots for getting me started! i was super stoked on finding you!
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